How We Create Our Fragrances
Fragrance Ingredients In Luxury Home Fragrance
Luxury scented candles are a world apart from unscented and inexpensive candles. The multi-billion-dollar home fragrance market has been steadily growing for the past few decades to the point that today, a luxury candle is both a symbol of status and a measure of taste. In the world of luxury home fragrance, luxury scented candles are the main workhorse and represent the core of the business. All other scent vehicles lag in terms of global sales, so for a luxury home fragrance brand, it is crucial to develop luxury scented candles that will compel an emotional purchase.
For me, the fragrance in my candles is the primary focus of my work, and my personal taste in fragrance plays a significant role, alongside market research in terms of global and domestic trends.
Diana Vreeland famously said, "With taste, you are born or not. But you can always buy a bit of varnish." However, taste is a very personal matter, and so is deeming an object as a symbol of status. A pair of sneakers can effectively serve as a symbol of status in certain economies. When it comes to luxury scented candles and luxury home fragrances, the choices may seem endless, but to me, they always go back to the fragrance composition and diffusion.
Fragrance Notes
Fragrance notes are the various layers of scent that create a complex olfactory experience, ranging from light top notes to deep base notes. Understanding how notes work in a fragrance is an evolving subject for fragrance aficionados.
Fragrance notes are arranged into a scent pyramid explaining the top, heart, and base notes. This is a simple explanation used in marketing to help you identify some of the notes, for example, a white floral or a plum accord or an accent of vanilla or caramel. Some brands put a lot of weight on their scent pyramid descriptions, and they may not always reflect the actual ingredients used; for example, a plum accord may just be a trace of a damascone, a molecule found in the smell of roses that, when isolated, can smell like plums. Top notes evaporate faster, heart notes constitute the fragrance's core, and base notes ensure everything remains "stuck together" as they are the last to evaporate. That's how a fresh, citrusy cologne may end up smelling musky or spicy after a few hours on your skin.
Fragrance Notes In Candles
Fragrance notes work differently in a home fragrance scent vehicle, such as a candle, diffuser, or incense, because these burn linearly, meaning all the molecules of a fragrance composition are released at approximately the same rate into the air. This has been the traditional knowledge for the past decades since scented candles came into the mainstream market in the sixties.
For the most part.
When I started to learn how to blend perfumery materials, I noticed in my testing of the fragrance formulas in candles that it's true that most of the blend will smell as it is intended, on the whole of the fragrance juice I had created. That part was a relief: all the investment in materials and the time blending them resulted in candles that smelled exactly like the fragrance blend in the cold, with the understanding that in a candle, the fragrance is released and affected by heat.
But, over time and the repeated testing of reformulations, I began to notice that certain materials were more evident than others. Some floral, woodsy, or spice elements became more diffusive over others in the same blend. When I moved into a three-story home, I smelled the revelation that the top notes of my fragrance blends were more noticeable on the top floors than on the ground floor of my house.
How can this be?
The reason is simple: lighter molecules are released more quickly than heavier ones and disperse more rapidly into the environment. The nuances are tenuous and verifiable after burning the same candle many times over and over. When you become familiar with a fragrance, you cannot smell it anymore, or your nose may be familiarized with most of the notes in it, and every now and then will find a new note that wasn't there before.
Last year, in 2024, I visited a store of a potential new client who insisted she try my candles by burning them in her own store, "I have to test the candles in my store first, before committing, I do this with all brands," she said. Fine.
So, I drove for about two hours to her location, armed with two of my strongest candles, and upon entering, I realized it would be a lost cause. In her tiny 15x15 feet store, she sold A LOT of stuff. She had a small counter in the middle of the walking area with a few testers of self-called niche perfume brands. The smell of the testers was so strong, that it caused my throat to itch; all I could smell were the Javanol and Norlimbanol base notes of those testers, which are the molecules that you also cannot stand anymore because they are omnipresent in all the amber, vanilla, and gourmand perfumes out there right now. We lit my candles, but oh, surprise! They could barely be smelled.
Duh.
I did not spend time explaining to that store owner that her perfume testers would overpower hers and anyone's sense of smell (and each other); it is not my job to do merchandising without being paid. But I came home, lit the same candles, and confirmed there was nothing wrong with them; it was the environment and the poor air circulation inside that tiny, cramped store that did not allow the fragrances to be smelled, combined with the strong smell of those perfume testers. In a closed environment, your nose can quickly be overcome with stronger molecules in the air, that don't allow you to smell anything else.
The same happens with the fragrance of candles made with fragrance oils compounded at a large scale: different molecules in them will make the fragrance oil have a determined aromatic profile and not sway from it because the molecules used are very strong and, in a sense, all similar to each other.
This is the principle behind functional fragrance. A fragrance compounder will have teams of perfumers and chemists working on different markets; if you are a candle maker purchasing a pre-compounded fragrance, it is created by the same team that may make a functional fragrance for soap, a dish detergent, a floor cleanser, or a moist towelette.
That is why so many candles smell like house products, regardless of their price tag.
Still, when it comes to diffusing the fragrance of my candles, my theory is that the size/ weight of the molecules in the fragrance blend will float at different heights in the room air, when the candle is lit and dispersing volatiles. This is because I use many different materials with different molecule sizes, like any perfumer would do.
Essential Oils Versus Fragrance Oils
Essential oils are extracted from plants, preserving their natural scent and therapeutic properties. These oils offer authenticity and balance, making them a favorite for those seeking a pure experience. In contrast, fragrance oils are synthetic or blended compounds that can replicate or enhance scents. Fragrance oils are inexpensive and readily available in the market, since they belong to a category of mass-produced commodities. Fragrance oils tend to burn linearly in a scented candle, this means that the scent profile does not change like it does when you spray a perfume on your skin. There is no gradual evaporation of smaller to larger molecules because all the chemicals in a fragrance oil will be more or less of the same size, to allow this kind of linear diffusion. The purpose is to have a perfume that will not change over the life cycle of the candle.
Sadly, the fragrance load included by most candle brands is relatively low compared to what it could be, and fragrance oils perform at different rates: from the same vendor, a lavender fragrance oil may perform better than a peach fragrance oil. The candle maker may expect the same diffusion from either, but it usually is not the case, so there is variation from one candle to another. Many times, this causes overloading or underloading. Underloading gives you a weak candle in which most of the fragrance oil may burn during the first half of the life cycle, leaving you with tasteless wax for the remaining half.
It's no secret that companies will cut corners and save as much as possible, and the fragrance load is one of the first things to go.
In contrast, I create my own blends in-house, ensuring each candle’s scent profile is distinctive, luxurious, and well-balanced. Crafted following the principles of French haute-parfumerie, the blends in RHR Luxury candles are exclusive and do not rely on the simplicity of fragrance oils; the result is a collection of customized fragrances not found in fragrance oil vendors or compounders, and performing at a different pace, because the size of molecules from top to heart to base notes varies dramatically, like a niche perfume is constructed.
I am not saying this way or that way is better. I am explaining what I chose to do to offer a different level of niche perfumery that I did not find in the luxury home fragrance market.
Understanding Fragrance Notes
Fragrance notes are categorized into three main layers: top, heart, and base notes. Top notes are the initial impressions when you light a candle, often fresh and light, attracting attention. Heart notes emerge as the candle burns, forming the core scent and lasting for several hours. Base notes provide depth and richness, lingering after the lighter notes have faded. Together, these layers create a multi-dimensional scent profile that evolves over time, enhancing the burning experience. A well-crafted candle manages these transitions seamlessly, providing a consistent and pleasurable aroma.
Fragrance Wheel and Families
The fragrance wheel organizes scent families into categories, aiding in understanding fragrance. Popular scent families include floral, fruity, woody, and oriental/ amber, evoking different emotions and atmospheres. Within each family, specific notes, such as jasmine in floral or sandalwood in woody, contribute to a candle's identity. Utilizing the fragrance wheel helps you identify personal preferences and discover new scents that resonate with you. RHR Luxury offers different scent families belonging to different perfumery notes , providing an olfactory journey every time you light a candle.
The Role of Perfumer in Candle Creation
The perfumer plays a crucial role in crafting the fragrance profile of luxury candles. Rather than outsourcing this aspect, I became a perfumer to create fragrance blends in-house, allowing for the meticulous control over quality and ingredient selection that I knew I would exercise. This practice enables the development of unique scent compositions that embody my vision for the brand and my products.
My approach, backed by years of R&D, uses a blend of materials uncommon in the candle industry. I create blends following the principles and methodology of French high-perfumery. This approach provides a broader spectrum of scents, maintaining consistency across different batches because the blends are developed in-house. Now a skilled perfumer, I carefully balance these oils to create complex aromas that resonate with my consumers, elevating the overall experience of the candle.
Sensory Profiles of High-End Candles
Luxury candles possess intricate scent profiles that transform spaces and evoke emotions. These candles often combine various notes to create a multisensory experience. Key fragrance categories, such as citrus, floral, woody, and unique blends, play essential roles in their appeal.
Citrus and Floral – Freshness and Elegance
Citrus scents, like bergamot and lemon, add a vibrant freshness that uplifts any atmosphere. These bright notes often blend seamlessly with floral fragrances such as jasmine and rose. This combination not only brings elegance and sophistication but also creates a balanced aroma that is refreshing and inviting.
The citrus notes provide an energizing effect, while the floral elements introduce a calming ambiance. Together, they can leave a lasting impression that transforms a room's feel.
Woody and Musk – Warmth and Depth
Woody fragrances, including sandalwood and cedar, offer an earthy quality that brings warmth and depth to luxury candles. These scents often evoke feelings of being grounded and connected to nature. Musk notes enhance this experience by adding a sensual, rich undertone that lingers pleasantly.
Complex Blends and Unusual Scents
High-end candles often feature complex blends and unusual scents that challenge conventional fragrance norms. These can include exotic ingredients like resins, floral absolutes, rare spices, or even unexpected notes like tobacco or leather. The goal is to craft unique sensory profiles that stand out in the market.
Every scent I launch is the product of global sourcing and blending materials to produce distinctive fragrances. Each unique composition tells a story, enabling you to explore different atmospheres and feelings. These complex scent profiles provide an opportunity to indulge in a unique aromatic journey that is both luxurious and captivating.
The Experience of Scented Candles
Scented candles provide a rich sensory experience that goes beyond mere fragrance. The interaction of aroma and environment can profoundly affect your mood and atmosphere. Understanding this experience can enhance your enjoyment of luxury candles.
Aromatherapy and Emotional Impact
When you light a scented candle, you engage in aromatherapy. Scents like lavender or incense promote relaxation, while citrus fragrances can uplift your mood. Each fragrance note plays a crucial role in the emotional response you experience.
Aromatic accords in luxury candles can trigger memories and feelings, making burning a candle deeply personal. For instance, spicy notes may evoke warmth and comfort, while fresh floral scents can energize your space. The psychological effects of fragrance are significant; they can calm anxiety or inspire creativity.
Frequently Asked Questions
Understanding the intricacies of fragrance notes in luxury candles can enhance your experience. The following sections address key topics regarding scent profiles, popular notes, and the essential elements contributing to exceptional luxury fragrances.
How do you create a balanced scent profile for luxury candles?
To achieve a balanced scent profile, you thoughtfully combine top, middle, and base notes. Each layer plays a critical role: top notes provide the first impression, middle notes add depth, and base notes create lasting impressions. This harmonious layering ensures a well-rounded fragrance experience.
What are the most popular top notes used in luxury candle making?
Popular top notes often include citrus scents like bergamot and lemon and fresh herbal scents such as basil and mint. Floral accords of jasmine, rose, lavender, and lily are also very popular. These lively notes capture attention quickly and set the tone for the fragrance journey.
What factors contribute to a strong scent throw in luxury candles?
Several factors influence scent throw in luxury candles. The quality and concentration of fragrance blends are crucial, as is the type of wick used and the diameter of the vessel. Proper wick sizing and placement also enhance the candle's ability to disperse fragrance effectively throughout the room.
Careful R&D conducted periodically at RHR Luxury ensures our luxury home fragrance products have a long life cycle. Candle testing provides the best wick and wax options for longevity and hot throw, vessel testing ensures durability and reliability under different conditions, and periodic testing of raw materials like essential oils, absolutes and aroma chemicals ensures freshness even before starting to blend.
Whether you are new to the world of luxury home fragrance or are an experienced aficionado, learning about the composition of the candles you purchase will help you make educated decisions about what you bring home and, perhaps, challenge your notions of luxury over time.
RHR
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